Thursday's Child: Murano glass

"Broken, the better to glitter.

Was that your intention,

to break apart just enough

to shine? What’s forged

without heat, or gleams without

a blush of poison?”

- from “Murano” by Mark Doty

Of the four classical elements, water is the one that defines Venice best. It's ironic, then, that the art for which Venice is best known is a product of fire and air.

Glass-making is the most important industry in Murano, a district of Venice made up of several islands connected by bridges. In the thirteenth century, all Venetian glassmakers were forced to resettle to Murano because of the risk of fire in the city. They soon formed a community on the island, and for many years were known for making the best glass in the world. In fact, artisans were prohibited from leaving the country, to prevent their specialized techniques from being copied elsewhere.

Many of today's glassmakers use the same techniques that have been passed down for generations. And they've taken advantage of their reputation by opening some of their factories and studios to visitors. When we were in Venice, we took a water taxi to visit one of the factories, and enjoyed seeing the stages of the process, including heating and colouring the glass, and shaping it by blowing or by using hand tools. These artisans work in incredibly hot temperatures - even watching the process from a safe distance was steamy. We were amused to see this artisan light a cigarette off the hot, malleable glass.

"Always
the fate of the maker,
to become what's made."

- from "Murano" by Mark Doty

Recipes Inspired by Musicals: Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat

My family has a long association with Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat. Andrew and I first saw the show when we visited London in 1992, a year after we were married. That trip was my first chance to meet most of his British relatives; both the trip and the musical were a big success.

A few years later, my mother took my sister and me to see the show at the Elgin Theatre in Toronto, starring Donny Osmond. And when my daughters were young, their elementary school put on a production in which their babysitter played Joseph.

But by far my favourite memory of Joseph happened when my youngest daughter was a newborn and my oldest daughter was a three-year-old – a very lively, animated three-year-old. It had been hard to keep up with her while I was pregnant, but now that she had a baby sister, I didn’t know how to keep her busy, especially when I needed to nurse the baby.

But one day, inspiration hit. I turned on the soundtrack to Joseph and asked her to perform the show for us. And she proceeded to take every role, acting and singing with an energy that was incomprehensible to her sleep-deprived mother. This routine became a staple of my child-rearing techniques, and kept her happy for many hours with very little participation required from me.

If you know the musical – or the Bible story on which it’s based – you won’t be surprised that the recipe it inspired was a loaf of bread. Joseph made a name for himself by interpreting dreams. Meeting two men in prison, they each told him their dreams, and Joseph explained what they meant. First, the butler told his dream and Joseph said he’d soon be freed. Then it was the baker’s turn:

“There I was standing with baskets of bread.

High in the sky I saw birds overhead,

Who flew to my baskets and ate every slice.

Give me the message – like his would be nice.”

(Unfortunately for the baker, he didn’t get a good-news message like the butler.)

When I make homemade bread, I almost always bake whole-wheat, whole-grain varieties. But focaccia, with its roots in ancient Rome (panis focacius), seemed in some vague way to complement a musical set in an ancient civilization. Now I realize the only connection is that my family – like the birds in the lyrics – ate every slice, with astonishing speed.

For other recipes inspired by musicals on my blog, see my recipe index.

Rosemary Focaccia with Coarse Salt

(adapted slightly from Kneadlessly Simple, by Nancy Baggett)

2 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose white flour, plus more if needed

2 Tbsp fresh rosemary needles (remove the stems), chopped fairly fine

3/4 tsp kosher salt

1 tsp instant, fast-rising, or bread-machine yeast

1 1/3 cups ice water, plus more if needed

1 Tbsp olive oil (first amount)

1 Tbsp olive oil (second amount), plus more as needed

3/4 tsp sea salt or other coarse salt

First rise: In a large bowl, thoroughly mix together the flour, rosemary, salt and yeast until blended.   Vigorously stir in the water, scraping down the bowl and mixing until very well blended. Vigorously stir in 1 Tbsp of the olive oil. If the dough is dry and hard to blend, stir in enough more ice water to yield a moist, yet slightly stiff dough.  Split dough in half, and place each in a medium to large mixing bowl. Cover bowls tightly with plastic wrap.  If desired, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours.  Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours (preferably closer to 18 hours).

Second rise: Line two 8” x 8” baking pans with parchment paper. Using a well-oiled rubber spatula, turn the dough out into the pans, trying not to deflate any more than necessary. Drizzle each loaf with 1/2 Tbsp of olive oil. With well-oiled hands, lightly pat and press out the dough until it is evenly thick and extends to within 1 inch of the edges all around. Tent the pan with olive oil-brushed plastic wrap.

Let rise: For a regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature for 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours.  For an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours then set out at room temperature.  Continue the rise until the dough doubles from its deflated size.

Baking: 20 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 500 degrees.  Place a broiler pan on the oven floor.  To bake, place the loaves in the oven and reduce the temperature to 475 degrees.  Immediately add a cup of water to the broiler pan - be careful of splattering and steam.  Then bake for an additional 8 – 10 minutes (or until the centre registers 209 to 212 on an instant-read thermometer) to be sure the centre is done. Cool in the pans on wire racks for 10 minutes, and transfer to wire racks to cool completely.

Note: Focaccia is best when fresh. Cut into rectangles and serve warm or at room temperature. To maintain crispness, drape with a tea towel at cool room temperature for 2 to 3 days.

Thursday's Child: Ljubljana, Full of Grace

Everything you need to know about Ljubljana is written on the front of this church - in Latin. "Ave,
Gratia Plena!" it reads. "Hail, full of grace!" I'm sure the inscription was written with the holiest of intentions, but it's easy to imagine that it refers to the whole of this lovely city.

Probably the best-known church in the city is St. Nicholas Cathedral, also known as Ljubljana Cathedral. The frescoes on the walls date back to the early eighteenth century, and the fresco on the dome interior was painted in 1844:

One of the most beautiful pieces of artwork in the church is the door relief on the main exterior door. The pope visited Ljubljana in 1996 to commemorate 1250 years of Christianity in Slovenia. To celebrate his visit, artist Tone Demsar was commissioned to decorate the door with scenes depicting the history of Slovenia:

If you look up from anywhere in town, you'll see the castle that dominates the entire city. Ljubljana Castle served primarily as a defence against attacks from the Ottoman Empire. After its importance waned, it served as a hospital, a prison and low-cost housing for impoverished citizens. In the late 1960s, a project began with the purpose of refurbishing the castle, and later a funicular was built to facilitate visiting it.

Above, the city view from the Castle grounds. Below is the view back down the funicular that transported us to the castle.

Here's what I loved most about Ljubljana Castle: its coat of arms bears the symbol of a dragon, just as dragon statues appear throughout the city. According to myth, the Greek hero Jason and his band of explorers, the Argonauts, founded Ljubljana. After stealing the Golden Fleece from King Aetes, they sailed from the Black Sea through the Danube, finally reaching the Ljubljanica River. When they stopped, they were threatened by a fierce dragon. Jason fought with, and eventually killed, the dragon. The city of Ljubljana was built upon that site.

One of the guardians of the Dragon Bridge.

Enjoying dinner by the side of the Ljubljanica River.

Smitten

Every so often, I print a recipe that I've fallen deeply in love with. You'll remember my Black Bean and Smoked Cheese Quesadillas, or my Rice Noodle Salad, or even my Stuffed Peppers. Every one of these is a dish that I secretly hope nobody else is around to eat, because it means more meals of leftovers for me.

I've found another recipe to add to that pantheon, and that's these Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Balsamic Reduction. It was a simple recipe I took from the newspaper, so simple they didn't even include amounts. I was dazzled at how incredibly these few simple flavours worked together. Andrew, who cheerfully samples every new recipe I try, enjoyed it, but perhaps wasn't smitten to the same level as me. Which might actually be a good thing, because it means more meals of leftovers for me.

Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Balsamic Reduction

(from Sue Riedl of The Globe and Mail)

2 heads of garlic

2 sweet potatoes, sliced into wedges (6 to 8, depending on the size of your sweet potatoes)

olive oil

salt and pepper

3 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

1 tsp sugar

2 1/2 ounces (70 grams) goat cheese (I used herbed goat cheese, but regular would be nice too)

Preheat oven to 475 degrees. Roast garlic for 40 minutes.

In the meantime, prepare sweet potatoes. Toss the wedges in olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Lay them on a parchment-lined cookie sheet and roast for 20 minutes. (Put them in the oven for the last 20 minutes that the garlic is in.)

Allow garlic and sweet potatoes to cool slightly.

For the sauce, bring balsamic vinegar and sugar to a boil in a small saucepan, and simmer for a couple of minutes to thicken. Cool slightly.

Drizzle balsamic reduction over warm sweet potatoes and top with goat cheese. Serve with mashed and seasoned roasted garlic.

Thursday's Child: Ljubljana, Slovenia

One of the joys of travelling is discovering new places about which you know very little. Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, was one of those places. I knew nothing about it, other than a conversation with a family of tourists we met in Munich, who told us Ljubljana was their favourite European city.

I was immediately curious about this hidden gem, and we were fortunate enough to visit it a few years later.

The centre of town is a pedestrian-only area, named Preseren Square after France Preseren, Slovenia's most-beloved poet. The lovely Franciscan Church sits on one of the corners of the square. A monument there is dedicated to Preseren, and it faces the window of his beloved Julija, the woman with whom he fell in love, and for whom he longed the rest of his life:

The Ljubljanica River flows through town and charmingly, has artwork posted upside down on its embankments, so you can view it right side up in the water.

With the river winding its way through town, Ljubljana is of course a city of bridges. The Dragon Bridge, guarded by four dragon sculptures, is probably the most famous and photogenic.

The photo above was taken just a short walk from the city centre. How many European capitals have this pastoral a setting so close to the centre of town?

Next week I'll be revisiting this beautiful city, with photos of Ljubljana Castle and St. Nicholas Cathedral.

Literature or Chickens?

"I don't know which is more discouraging, literature or chickens."

I loved this E.B. White quote when I heard it, not knowing it referred to the flock of poultry he was raising at the time. I always pictured him fussing in the kitchen with a chicken recipe, and being so frustrated, he'd go back to his writing.

I don't often get discouraged in the kitchen, but it's been hard to find a good recipe for baked chicken that isn't soggy and tasteless. Frying is the way to go for crispy chicken, but I'm reluctant to fry, for both dietary and safety reasons.

That's why I was so happy to receive The Lemonade Cookbook, and try the recipe for Buttermilk-Baked Chicken. If you don't mind waiting 24 hours while the chicken marinates, you'll be rewarded with one of the most flavourful chicken recipes I've ever eaten - and it's crispy, too!

I won this cookbook from Chocolate Shavings, a beautiful blog written by Jennifer, a food specialist for the magazine Canadian Living. Thanks, Jennifer! I'm looking forward to trying so many other recipes from this cookbook, too.

And (this isn't news for anyone who's seen me wrestling with my latest book) right now I'd have to say literature is more frustrating than chickens.

Buttermilk-Baked Chicken
(from The Lemonade Cookbook by Alan Jackson and Joann Cianciulli)

2 cups buttermilk
1 Tbsp Dijon mustard
1 Tbsp hot sauce, such as Tabasco
2 tsp paprika
1 tsp kosher salt, plus more for seasoning
1 onion, coarsely chopped
5 garlic cloves, smashed
4 (6 ounce) skinless boneless chicken breast halves
2 cups panko bread crumbs
freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbsp canola oil

To prepare the marinade, in a large bowl whisk the buttermilk, mustard, hot sauce, paprika, salt, onion and garlic together. Put the chicken in a plastic storage bag, add the buttermilk mixture, and thoroughly coat the chicken in the marinade. Press out the air, seal the bag, and marinate the chicken in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours, preferably up to two days.

When ready to cook the chicken, preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Remove the chicken from the marinade, wiping off any excess buttermilk. Discard the marinade. Season both sides of the chicken breast lightly with salt and pepper. Spread the breadcrumbs out on a flat plate. Press the chicken breasts into the bread crumbs to completely coat all sides, shaking off the excess.

Put an ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Coat the pan with 2 Tbsp of oil. Once the oil is shimmering, lay the chicken in the pan (you may have to do this in batches). Sear for 3 minutes per sides. Nestle the seared chicken breasts side by side in the skillet.  Transfer the skillet (and chicken) to the oven and bake for roughly 20 to 25 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through and the crust is golden.

Muffins

Jack: How can you sit there, calmly eating muffins when we are in this horrible trouble, I can't make out. You seem to me to be perfectly heartless.

Algernon: Well, I can't eat muffins in an agitated manner. The butter would probably get on my cuffs. One should always eat muffins quite calmly. It is the only way to eat them.

- from The Importance of Being Earnest, by Oscar Wilde

I don't butter my muffins, so I don't have to worry about getting my cuffs greasy. And I hope this doesn't make me heartless, but I think muffins are always a good choice, regardless of whether I'm calm or agitated. Somehow they've acquired the guise of a quasi-healthy food, and I'm sticking with it.

This muffin recipe is a perfect example. The pears and chocolate chips add sweetness, but not as much as if I'd made cookies. I wouldn't eat cookies for breakfast (okay, I might, but I try not to make a habit of it) whereas eating muffins for breakfast - or snack, or dessert - seems perfectly legitimate. And while it's important to be earnest, it's even more important to eat your muffins with pleasure. In fact, it is the only way to eat them.

Pear Chocolate Chunk muffins

(adapted from The Jewish Week) 

1/4 cup vegetable oil

2/3 cup sugar

1 egg

1 – 2 firm, ripe pears, diced (to make 2/3 cup in total)

1 tsp vanilla

2/3 cup all-purpose flour

1/3 cup whole wheat flour

1/2 tsp baking soda

pinch salt

1 tsp ground cinnamon

1/2 cup chocolate chunks

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Combine oil and sugar in a medium bowl and mix well.  Stir in the egg, and add diced pears and vanilla. Combine well. Stir in both flours, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon, and stir just until combined. Add chocolate chunks.

Divide the mixture between about 8 lined muffin cups. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool for five minutes and remove from the pan to cool completely.