Classic potato salad

I don't normally make mayonnaise-based potato salads, but I made an exception for this wonderful variation. The richness of the mayonnaise is cut by creme fraiche, and the combination of coriander, lemon, and cider vinegar give it a delicious piquant flavour. With the generous addition of hard-boiled eggs, the salad represents the best of two picnic favourites. I'm a big fan of cookbook author Susie Middleton, who has never steered me wrong with a recipe, and this classic potato salad is yet another winner.

Make this for the next picnic or potluck dinner you're invited to - and hope it isn't all gone before you fill your plate!

Classic Potato Salad

(from Fresh from the Farm by Susie Middleton)

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4” pieces

kosher salt

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1/2 cup crème fraiche or sour cream

1 Tbsp plus 1 tsp cider vinegar

1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice

1 tsp freshly grated lemon zest

3/4 tsp ground coriander

Freshly ground black pepper

3 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and sliced

2 long ribs celery, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced (3/4 cup)

1/2 cup diced onion

2 Tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 Tbsp sliced fresh chives

Put the potatoes and 2 tsp salt in a large saucepan and cover with plenty of water. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook until just tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain carefully in a colander, rinse briefly with cool water, and spread on a clean dishtowel to cool to room temperature.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, crème fraiche, cider vinegar, lemon juice, lemon zest, ground coriander, a pinch of salt, and several grinds of black pepper. Add the cooled potatoes, eggs, celery, onions, most of the parsley, and most of the chives. Sprinkle 1/2 tsp salt over all. Gently mix everything together until well combined, breaking the eggs apart as you mix. Transfer to a serving bowl and garnish with remaining parsley and chives. Serve right away or refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

A plum assignment

"I have eaten
the plums
that were in
the icebox

and which
you were probably
saving
for breakfast

Forgive me
they were delicious
so sweet
and so cold"

- William Carlos Williams, "This is Just To Say"

I'm very grateful that nobody ate the plums that were on the counter, which I was saving to bake with. Especially grateful because I've never baked with plums before, and this recipe made a convert out of me. The jammy filling is delicious and sweet, and makes a perfect foil for the crisp base and topping. Now the only question is this: can I justify saving one of these for breakfast?

Plum Oatmeal Bars
(adapted from Canadian Living)

Makes about 20 bars

Ingredients:
3 1/2 cups chopped firm ripe red or black plums (about 5)
3/4 cup sugar (first amount)
1 Tbsp grated orange zest
1/3 cup orange juice
2 Tbsp cornstarch
2 cups quick-cooking (not instant) rolled oats
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup granulated sugar (second amount)
1/4 tsp salt
1 cup cold butter, cubed

Directions:

In saucepan, bring plums, 3/4 cup sugar, orange zest and orange juice to boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until plums are tender and beginning to break down, about 12 minutes.

Whisk cornstarch with 2 Tbsp water; stir into plum mixture. Bring to boil, then cook, stirring, until thickened, about 1 minute. Scrape into bowl; place plastic wrap directly on surface. Refrigerate until chilled, about 1 hour. (Can make up to 24 hours in advance.)

While plum mixture is chilling, in large bowl whisk together oats, flour, brown sugar, 1/4 cup white sugar, and salt. Using pastry blender or two knives, cut in butter until mixture resembles coarse crumbs.

Firmly press half the oat mixture into bottom of parchment-paper lined 9" x 9" cake pan. Bake at 350 degrees until golden, about 20 minutes. Remove and let cool in pan for 5 minutes.

Spread plum mixture over crust. Gently press remaining oat mixture into small clumps and sprinkle over plum mixture. Bake at 350 degrees until topping is golden, 40-45 minutes. Let cool completely on board, then chill before cutting. Cut into 20 bars.

Springtime asparagus

"Spring drew on ... and a greenness grew over these brown beds, which, freshening daily, suggested the thought that Hope traversed them at night, and left each morning brighter traces of her steps."
- Charlotte Bronte, Jane Eyre

Here in Toronto, today feels like the middle of summer. But technically, it's the last full day of spring. So if I'm going to post my favourite new asparagus recipe, now's the time.

If you want to keep things super-easy for a weeknight meal, the asparagus is wonderful on its own, simply roasted in the spice marinade. The citrus dressing, yogurt and avocado dress it up beautifully for guests, or a leisurely weekend meal.

(By the way, you might think it's impossible to have "too much" asparagus. If you looked inside my fridge, however, you might think again. Apparently, I'll be happily roasting asparagus well into the summer.)

Spiced Roasted Asparagus with Avocado and Yogurt
(adapted from Smitten Kitchen)

For the asparagus

1 1/2 tsp ground cumin
1 1/2 tsp ground coriander
2 tsp fresh thyme leaves
1 tsp kosher salt
4 garlic cloves, minced or pressed
1 Tbsp red wine vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil (first amount)
2 pounds thin-to-medium asparagus, ends trimmed

To finish

2 Tbsp olive oil (second amount)
2 Tbsp orange juice
2 Tbsp freshly-squeezed lemon juice
1 large firm-ripe avocados, cut in thin slices
1/4 cup plain yogurt
2 Tbsp toasted sesame seeds

Heat oven to 400 degrees F. Cover 2 baking sheets with foil.

Combine first 7 ingredients in a small bowl. Lay asparagus on baking sheets and drizzle with marinade, rolling until completely covered. Roast for 10 minutes, then flip and roast for another ten minutes until just tender.

Meanwhile, combine 2 Tbsp olive oil, orange juice and lemon juice in a small dish.

When asparagus is done, scatter with avocado slices, then drizzle with citrus dressing. Dollop yogurt over the top and sprinkle with seeds.

Tahini Roasted Cauliflower

"And so, with the sunshine and the great bursts of leaves growing on the trees, just as things grow in in fast movies, I had that familiar conviction that life was beginning over again with the summer."
- F. Scott Fitzgerald, The Great Gatsby

A short post today - we've just dropped the girls off for another summer working at camp. My oldest will be one of the directors, while my youngest will be leading the L.I.T. program. They're both thrilled (and a little nervous) about the step up in responsibility. I'm excited for them, and know they'll rise to the challenge.

Earlier in the week, my oldest graduated from the University of Toronto with high distinction. And the week before that, my husband and I celebrated our 25th wedding anniversary. We have much to be grateful for and, yes, life does feel like it's beginning over again with the summer.

Tahini Roasted Cauliflower
(from Playing with Flour)

1/3 cup tahini
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 - 3/4 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
2 Tbsp drained capers
6 cups cauliflower florets (from one medium size cauliflower)
Half a lemon
2/3 Tbsp chopped fresh parley
1/4 tsp kosher salt

Preheat oven to 475 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil and set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk tahini, olive oil and red pepper flakes together. Gently whisk in the capers. Add cauliflower and toss well to coat. Arrange cauliflower in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet. Roast for 15 minutes, stirring about halfway through.

Remove pan from oven. Immediately squeeze juice of half a lemon over top. Sprinkle with salt and parsley. Transfer to a serving platter and serve.

The grad with mom and dad

 

June 1, 1991

Sugar-free desserts

"Better a witty fool than a foolish wit."
- Feste in Twelfth Night, William Shakespeare

Finding a sugar-free dessert that tastes delicious can sometimes feel like a fool's errand. I'm usually dubious about that kind of thing - I'd honestly rather eat an apple than a dessert that sacrifices flavour to make health claims.

That's why I was intrigued by Baking with Less Sugar, by Joanne Chang. If anyone could succeed, it would be the owner of Boston's Flour Bakery, who set the bar with her delicious baked goods in two previous cookbooks. There were so many great recipes, it was hard to choose where to start, but I picked a winner with this fruit-studded fool. It's sweetened with an apple juice concentrate reduction, and we didn't miss the sugar one bit. Low-fat it is not, but if you want to cut back on sugar without giving up flavour, it's a perfect way to start.

If this is fool's paradise, I want in.

Berry Cream Cheese Fool
Baking with Less Sugar, Joanne Chang

One 12 ounce can frozen apple juice concentrate, thawed
8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
1/2 cup creme fraiche
2 cups heavy cream
2 tsp vanilla extract
1/8 tsp kosher salt
4 cups mixed berries

In a small saucepan, bring the apple juice concentrate to a boil over medium-high heat. Decrease the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the juice reduces to 3/4 cup. To check whether it's reduced enough, occasionally pour the juice into a measuring cup; if it it's more than 3/4 cup pour it back into the saucepan to simmer until sufficiently reduced. Remove from heat and cool in the fridge until cold to the touch.

Using a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip together the cream cheese and 1/2 cup of the apple juice concentrate (discard the rest) for 2-3 minutes, or until the mixture is light and fluffy, scraping the bowl occasionally to incorporate the cream cheese equally. Add creme fraiche and whip together to combine. Slowly drizzle in the cream and beat, still on medium speed, for 1 to 2 minutes more, or until the cream thickens and combines with the cream cheese mixture. Whisk in the vanilla and salt.

Fold the berries into the cream cheese mixture, shaving a few spoonfuls of berries to garnish the tops. Portion into bowls or glasses and top with a generous spoonful of berries. Serve immediately, or cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate up to two hours.

Groceries: The sequel

You may remember that a few weeks ago I wrote about the challenges of sending a non-shopping spouse to get groceries.

It happened again, and those of you who know Andrew won't be surprised to see what he brought home:

I guess if it's good enough for Jose Bautista, it's good enough for us.

(Apologies to my friends from Texas. I hope we can still be friends.)

Apparently I'm as predicable as my husband, though, because as soon as I saw those Golden Grahams in our cupboard, I knew what I was going to do with them. The last time I visited Aunt Barbara in California, she made a batch of these delicious and completely addictive treats. With three ingredients and about ten minutes in total to make them, they couldn't be easier.

Even Jose Bautista would flip for a recipe like this.

Aunt Barbara's Golden Graham treats

1 cup white chocolate chips
2 cups Golden Grahams

1/2 cup unsalted peanuts

Line a 9" x 13" pan or cookie sheet with parchment paper and set aside.

Melt the white chocolate chips, either on a stove over a double-boiler or in the microwave, heating for no more than 30 seconds at a time and stirring after each time.

Once the chocolate has melted, add Golden Grahams and peanuts. Stir well until completely mixed. Spread out on parchment paper-lined pan and set in the fridge until mixture has completely cooled. Break into pieces and store in the fridge or at room temperature.

Springtime comfort food

"Nothing is so beautiful as spring ...
The glassy peartrees leaves and blooms, they brush
The descending blue; that blue is all in a rush
With richness; the racing lambs too have fair their fling."

- from "Spring" by Gerard Manley Hopkins

Hard to believe it's been four weeks since I wrote my last blog post. We were on holidays at the beginning of May, and last weekend I visited my mom while she recuperated from cataract surgery. In Toronto, the month of May usually moves from just-past-winter to nearly-summer, and it's no different this year. Andrew and I are enjoying the heat as we garden on this lovely Canadian long weekend.

This recipe is probably more apt for those just-past-winter days, but I've been making it for two winters now and still haven't posted the recipe. I didn't want to let it wait for a third winter. These baked shells are comfort food at its best, and I'll happily enjoy that any time of the year.

Chicken and broccoli stuffed pasta shells
(adapted slightly from Fearless Homemaker)
Note: This recipe is particularly great with homemade alfredo sauce. But if you don't have the time, store-bought is fine too.

Ingredients
1/2 cup alfredo sauce, first amount
1/2 cup alfredo sauce, second amount
2 cups cooked chicken, shredded
2 cups broccoli, cooked and chopped
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
1/2 cup shredded or grated Parmesan cheese, first amount
kosher salt, to taste
20 jumbo pasta shells (which is half of a 12 -ounce box) cooked according to package instructions
generous
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese, second amount

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Spoon 1/2 cup alfredo sauce in the bottom of a 9 x 9" baking dish (just enough to lightly coat the bottom of the dish).

In a medium bowl, combine 1/2 cup alfredo sauce, shredded chicken, chopped broccoli, cheddar cheese and 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese. Add kosher salt to taste.

Spoon the mixture evenly into the pasta shells and arrange shells in the bottom of the baking dish. Sprinkle the rest of the Parmesan over the top. Cover with foil and bake for 30 minutes, then uncover and bake for 10 more minutes, until the shells are golden brown.

Serve hot.