A Portuguese Sonnet

One of the ways to survive a long, cold winter is to imagine yourself in a warmer place. And if I can't actually be there, perhaps the taste and aroma of food from a more temperate climate can take me there.

It must have been with that in mind that I picked up a Portuguese cookbook this week. Every single recipe sounded delicious, from the Green Onion mini-omelettes to the Corn Bread to the enchantingly-titled Cream From Heaven. But in the end, the recipe I had to make was Chicken with Sauteed Mushrooms and Cream Port Sauce.

As I had hoped, this recipe took me to a country I've never visited but often imagined. To Lisbon's medieval Castelo Sao Jorge, a Moorish castle whose oldest sections date back to the sixth century. To Sintra's fairy-tale estate, the Quinta da Regaleira and its gardens. To Evora, with its noble Roman Temple and gothic Cathedral. All under a blue sky and an ebullient sun.

Just imagine the inspiration I'll get when I make Cream From Heaven.

Chicken with Sauteed Mushrooms and Cream Port Sauce

(adapted from Pimentos and Piri Piri: Portuguese Comfort Cooking by Carla Azevedo)

Note: my favourite part of this recipe was the garlic, salt and thyme mixture that's rubbed on the chicken and under the skin. Next time I'll double the amount and use it all.

2 1/2 pounds chicken breasts, skin on and bones in (about 4)

2 cloves garlic, minced (first amount)

1 tsp kosher salt

6 sprigs fresh thyme, chopped and thick stems discarded

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

2 Tbsp olive oil (first amount)

2 Tbsp butter (first amount)

1 Tbsp olive oil (second amount)

1 Tbsp butter (second amount)

2 cloves garlic, minced (second amount)

1 pound mushrooms (such as oyster, shiitake and Portobello caps), thinly sliced

1/4 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup chicken broth

3 Tbsp port or brandy

2 tsp Dijon mustard

3 Tbsp whipping cream

Kosher salt and coarsely ground pepper, to taste

Rinse the chicken under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Combine the garlic, salt and thyme and rub into the skin, tucking some under the skin. Refrigerate for 4 hours or, if time allows, overnight. Bring the chicken to room temperature for 30 minutes before using.

Place the flour in a shallow bowl. Dredge the chicken in the flour, shaking off any excess. Discard the remaining flour.

In a heavy, large skillet over medium heat, heat 2 Tbsp olive oil and 2 Tbsp butter until the butter has melted. Cook the chicken for about 4 minutes on each side, until browned. Reserve pan juices.

Transfer the chicken to a baking sheet or ovenproof pan and bake for 13 to 15 minutes in a preheated 425 degree oven, until the chicken is tender and no longer pink inside. Transfer the chicken to a platter and keep warm.

Drain and discard all but 1 Tbsp of the pan juices from the skillet. Add 1 Tbsp oil and 1 Tbsp butter and heat over medium-high heat. When the butter has melted, add the garlic and cook for 1 to 2 minutes until softened. Add the mushrooms and cook until golden and softened, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the white wine and bring to a boil. Simmer until the wine sauce is reduced by one-third and clings to the mushrooms.

In a small bowl, combine the chicken stock, port and mustard, and whisk to combine. Pour over the mushrooms and increase the heat to medium-high. Bring to a boil and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the sauce has thickened and reduced by one-third. Add the cream, whisk to combine, and cook for 1 minute or until the sauce is well blended and heated through.

Adjust seasonings to taste, and serve chicken with the mushroom port sauce.