Thursday's Child: Fairy Chimneys in Cappadocia

This month, I’ll be writing about four amazing outdoor adventures we’ve enjoyed on our trips.  One of my favourite aspects of traveling is seeing the natural beauty in many places around the world, and Cappadocia was one such highlight.

Cappadocia is a region in central Turkey that possesses a landscape that could have come straight from the moon.  These freestanding rocks have been eroded by centuries of flowing rivers and flood waters to resemble rocky spires.  Could it be that they really are the fairy chimneys that they’re known as?

It’s easy to imagine that King Oberon and Queen Titania of A Midsummer Night’s Dream dwelt in a palace as regal and unusual as one of these.  Living here really might make a fairy king perform magic that would make his queen fall in love with a donkey.

These photos were all taken the day we flew into Cappadocia from Istanbul, and if it wasn’t quite like visiting Fairyland, it really was a mysterious and unrecognizable landscape.  We felt as if we’d been transported to another realm where, after you’ve left, you wonder if it really was a dream after all.

Food in literature

What are your favourite descriptions of food in literature?

There are some great books that have a food theme.  You might choose Chocolat by Joanne Harris. It’s the story of a woman who opens a chocolate shop during Lent, across the street from the church.  (“Chocolate curls, white buttons with colored vermicelli, pain d’epices with gilded edging, marzipan fruits in their nests of ruffled paper … I sell dreams, small comforts, sweet harmless temptations to bring down a multitude of saints crash-crash-crashing among the hazels and nougatines…”)

Or maybe you’d go with non-fiction.  Laurie Colwin’s wonderful Home Cooking gives recipes along with chapter-length anecdotes about her life. (“Soup embraces variety.  There are silken cream soups that glisten on the spoon and spicy bisques with tiny flecks of lobster.  There are broths in which float tiny tortellini and bouillons served in teacups on cold days or, in the case of my great-aunt Julia Rice, ladled from silver punch bowls and served in punch cups to the conductors on the old Fifth Avenue streetcar during snowstorms.”)

Maybe you’re thinking of a great food scene from a book.  When I asked my daughters for their ideas, one of them mentioned the chocolate frogs that Harry Potter loved.  Or how about the mince and slices of quince that the Owl and the Pussycat served at their wedding?

Two food scenes really resonate with me.  I loved Little Women when I was a girl.  I’ll never forget Jo March sitting in the garret eating apples while she cried over “The Heir of Redclyffe”.  (Didn’t you want to be Jo March?  I did.  And it wasn’t until I saw the 1994 movie that I understood why she chose Professor Bhaer over Laurie.)

The second scene is from a book that I loved along with my girls when they were learning to read.  Poppleton, by the wonderful Cynthia Rylant, is the first in a series of books about a pig and his friends, written for beginning readers.  Poppleton’s friend Fillmore the goat is sick, and needs to take a pill.  He asks Poppleton to hide it in a slice of cake.  Poppleton does, but Fillmore keeps eating the pieces that don’t have the pill in it.  When he finally gets to the last piece, Poppleton asks him if he’s going to eat that, too.  “No,” said Fillmore.  “It has a pill.”

So if I could combine these two food scenes into one perfect food, it would have to be Dorie Greenspan’s recipe for apple cake. The April issue of Canadian Living magazine featured an interview with Dorie and four recipes from her newest book Around my French Table.  When I saw that one of those recipes was Marie-Helene's Apple Cake, I knew I had to try it.  Loaded with apples (four different varieties), it's full of flavour, and even the people in my house who don't usually care for fruit desserts loved this one.  

Give this recipe a try … and don’t forget to leave a comment telling me your favourite food scene in literature!

Marie-Helene's Apple Cake

(From Dorie Greenspan's Around My French Table)

¾ cup all-purpose flour

¾ tsp baking powder

pinch of salt

4 large apples (if possible, choose 4 different kinds)

2 large eggs

¾ cup sugar

3 Tbsp dark rum (I used rum extract)

½ tsp pure vanilla extract

8 Tbsp (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

Centre a rack in the oven and preheat to 350 degrees.  Generously butter an 8-inch springform pan or line with parchment paper.

Whisk the flour, baking powder and salt together in a small bowl.

Peel the apples, cut them in half and remove the cores.  Cut the apples into 1 to 2 inch chunks.

In a medium bowl, beat the eggs until foamy.  Pour in the sugar and beat for a minute or so to blend.  Whisk in the rum and vanilla.  Whisk in half the flour and, when it is incorporated, add half the melted butter, followed by the rest of the flour and the remaining butter, mixing gently after each addition so you have a smooth, thick batter.  Fold in the apples, turning the fruit so it’s coated with batter.  Scrape the mix into the pan and pat down until it’s even.

Bake for 50 to 60 minutes or until a knife inserted into the centre comes out clean.  Transfer to a cooling rack and let rest for 5 minutes.  Remove from pan, and allow cake to cool until it’s just slightly warm or at room temperature.

Thursday's Child: Destination San Jose, Costa Rica

Destination: San Jose, Costa Rica

When we visited:  March 2011

Why to go:

Although we didn’t stay in the city of San Jose itself, we spent part of our holidays in the hills just north of the city.  We were thrilled that we did, because the beautiful hills and cooler days provided a wonderful counterpart to the warmer weather by the ocean.

What to see:

We hired a guide for a day, and Leo took us to the Poas volcano in the morning.  Although it was cloud-covered while we were there, we could just see the rim of this still-active volcano.  At an altitude of nearly 9000 feet, we enjoyed the short walk to the edge, seeing the hardy plants that live there (including Poor Man’s Umbrella and Monkey’s Tail fern).

In the afternoon, we shopped in the town of Sarchi, known for its crafts, particularly the hand-painted oxcarts typical of the region.  While we were in one shop, we watched an artisan painting a side of a cart with finesse.

If we’d stayed longer, we would have loved some of the other excursions.    Finca Rosa Blanca is a working coffee plantation, and they offer a tour of their farm.  I still regret that we didn’t have the chance to visit a school in the local community, too.

Where to stay:

The hotel itself was the reason we spent several days near San Jose, and it’s a decision we didn’t regret.  It really is one of the loveliest properties we’ve ever stayed at, set in the quiet countryside less than half an hour from the city airport.  But it seemed miles from anywhere.  Each evening we sat out on our terrace, watching the twinkling lights of San Jose in the valley below, before walking down the leafy path to the hotel restaurant.

The pool was just two minutes from our room, but completely hidden behind the foliage.  With a built-in waterfall and a hot tub on the upper deck, it was a wonderful place to relax and enjoy the sun.

We loved the philosophy of Finca Rosa Blanca as much as anything.  They are devoted to sustainable tourism, unlike many properties that pay it lip service for marketing purposes.  Glenn and Teri buy most of their supplies from local merchants and support several schools and environmental causes.  They also have a number of initiatives in place to protect the water supply and to leave as small a trace on the environment as possible.

Where to eat:

Although we had a delightful lunch out in the village of Sarchi, the food at Finca Rosa Blanca was incomparable.  We ate all of our breakfasts on the restaurant’s beautiful, leafy terrace.  One of my daughters swore by the French toast, but I loved the Costa Rican breakfast with rice and beans.  And all three dinners we ate there were terrific.  The fish specials every night were great, but the steak and pork on the menu were equally good.  And the chef very graciously prepared a plain pasta for my daughter with less-adventurous taste buds.

P.S. If you read my guest post on the i-escape blog, the photos that accompanied it were supplied by them (except for the one of me).  But the photos on this post were all taken by Andrew!

Guest blog

We just got back from holidays in Costa Rica and, although you’ll be reading about it here sometime, I’d love it if you read my guest post on the i-escape blog.  i-escape features some of the most dreamworthy properties around the world that I’ve seen, and whenever we go on holidays, I check their website to see if they recommend any hotels in the area.  That's what we did last summer when we stayed at Clos de Bellefontaine and Villa Fol Avril in Normandy, France.  We loved both of them. 

Sometimes I check out their website only to daydream.  I may never get to Tunisia or Bali.  But that doesn’t keep me from imagining what it would be like to stay at the Hotel Dar Said or Bambu Indah.

When I won a blogging contest at i-escape a few weeks ago, they offered me the chance to guest-write on their blog, as well as a reduced rate on my stay at one of their properties.  Needless to say, my comments are entirely my own opinions and aren’t influenced by either of their generous offers.

Take a look at my first of two blog posts on i-escape and see what we did in Costa Rica!

The Grad Dress

Yesterday, I helped my youngest daughter buy her grad dress.

She isn’t graduating until June, but three of her friends had already bought theirs and she was anxious to get one of her own.  So she, her big sister and I hit the stores yesterday in search of the perfect dress.

Now I’m not much of a shopper.  Other than buying books, which I could do every day of my life, shopping makes me cranky.  The stores are too warm, I always seem to have too many things in my arms, and sometimes finding a helpful sales clerk is challenging.  In my ideal world, I’d have a personal shopper buy clothes on my behalf.  (In that world, I’d also have someone to look after my laundry.  But I digress.)

Shopping for a grad dress is different.  More than just an article of clothing, it marks a shift in my daughter’s life, a leap from girl to young woman.  And I truly loved being part of that.

I don’t know how my girls got to be so old.  This year I’m buying a dress for eighth grade grad; next year I’ll be buying a twelfth grade grad dress for her older sister.  When I look at pictures of them as toddlers and babies, it almost feels like I was a different person in those days. Back then, my thoughts were often completely wrapped up in their lives.  Things are still busy, of course, but as they get older, it’s part of my job to step back a little.  Always being there when they need me – like shopping for a grad dress – but giving them independence when that’s what they need.

Oh, and the dress?  I’m not allowed to post it, but it looks great!

Fortunately, it doesn’t matter how grown-up your family is.  Everyone, young and old, will love these cookies.  The only change I made to the original recipe was adding toffee bits, but I think they’d be great with or without. 

Crispy Chocolate Oatmeal Cookies

(adapted from Two Peas and Their Pod)

½ cup brown sugar

½ cup white sugar

½ cup softened unsalted butter

1 egg

1 tsp vanilla

1 cup flour

¼ tsp salt

½ tsp baking powder

½ tsp baking soda

1 cup oats (not quick oats)

1 ¼ cups Rice Krispies

1 cup chocolate chips

¾ cup toffee bits

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Combine butter and sugars in mixing bowl.  Beat until smooth.  On low, add in egg and vanilla extract.  Beat until combined.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, baking powder, and baking soda.  Slowly add to the butter mixture.  Stir in the oats, Rice Krispies, chocolate chips and toffee bits.  Avoid overmixing, which would crush the cereal.

Scoop dough into balls and place on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper.  Bake for 10 – 12 minutes.  Allow to cool for a minute on the cookie sheet before moving to a cooling rack.

Thursday's Child: Destination Rome

Destination: Rome

The Roman Forum

When we visited: August 2009

Why to go:

Fabulous history, beautiful churches, great art.  And a sculpture that just might bite your hand off.

What to see:

You already know most of what you want to see.  If you love history, there's no better destination.  The Colosseum, the Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill will make you appreciate the greatness of the Roman Empire.  The Vatican Museums’ Sistine Chapel is truly one of the great works of art, and St. Peter’s Basilica is both majestic and holy.

The great St. Peter's

Legend says if you throw a coin in Trevi Fountain, you’ll return to Rome someday. It worked for me – I did the first time I visited Rome in 1987, and I came back 22 years later.  Just to be sure, I tossed another coin in the fountain this time.  With any luck, I won’t have to wait 22 years before my next visit.

Have any of you seen the wonderful movie, Roman Holiday?  Starring Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck, it’s the story of a princess who sees the city through the eyes of a newspaper reporter.  One of the places they visit is The Mouth Of Truth, a marble disc with a face carved into it.  According to legend (the Romans love their legends), if you stick your hand into the mouth and tell a lie, it will be bitten off.  I’m pleased to tell you that we returned from Rome with all our limbs intact.

The Pollock family recreates another great movie moment.

Where to stay:

Finding a reasonably-priced hotel in any big European city can be difficult.  We were lucky to stay at the Caesar House Residenze Romane, which offered a family room at a great rate.  This centrally-located hotel is a couple of minutes’ walk to the Forum and the Colosseum and, like many European hotels, includes breakfast in the price. 

Where to eat:

When in Rome, you must try the gelato.  Gelato is like super-creamy ice cream, and we sampled our way through any number of gelaterias in Rome. San Crispino is reputed to serve the best, although we loved Tre Scalini in Piazza Navona.  Really, it’s splitting hairs.  It’s all delicious.

Silence

It was a busy morning.  I was cleaning the house and doing some baking (note: this was before Lent started!).  I had a handyman in, working on the bathroom.  My youngest daughter called at lunch to ask if she could have two friends over.

When they got here, the three of them pulled out their cell phones so they could compare ring tones – all at the same time. The hammering from the bathroom was challenged and defeated by the decibels at the kitchen table.  Three competing ring tones were analyzed – and modified, and retested – over the pasta. The handyman went out to his truck – ostensibly to eat his lunch, but I suspect he couldn’t hear himself hammering over the symphony in the kitchen.

And then I served these cookies. Phones were set aside, and the kitchen became an oasis of silence, broken only by an occasional guttural sound of gastronomic appreciation.

This recipe comes from the March issue of Bon Appetit magazine.  It makes a fairly small batch of cookies (I got fourteen) which is a good thing, because they’re best served on the day they’re made.  Four to the handyman and six to the hungry musicians left just four for dinner that night.

Fudgy Meringue Cookies

(adapted from Bon Appetit)

1 cup chocolate chips, divided

1 1/2 cups powdered sugar, divided

1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

2 teaspoons cornstarch

2 large egg whites, room temperature

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Place 1/2 cup chocolate chips in small microwave-safe bowl. Cook in 15-second intervals until chocolate softens; stir until melted and smooth. Cool chocolate to lukewarm, about 10 minutes. Whisk 1/2 cup sugar, cocoa, and cornstarch in small bowl to blend.

Using electric mixer, beat room-temperature egg whites, vanilla, 1/8 teaspoon salt, and cream of tartar in medium bowl until soft peaks form. Add remaining 1 cup sugar in 4 additions, beating just to blend after each addition. Continue to beat until meringue is thick and glossy like marshmallow creme, about 2 minutes longer. Beat in cocoa mixture. Fold in melted chocolate, then 1/2 cup chips.

Drop batter by rounded tablespoonfuls onto prepared sheets, spacing 3 inches apart. Bake cookies 7 minutes. Reverse sheets and bake until dry-looking and cracked, about 6 minutes. Cool cookies on sheets 5 minutes. Transfer cookies to racks and cool completely.