Thursday's Child: Destination San Jose, Costa Rica

Destination: San Jose, Costa Rica

When we visited:  March 2011

Why to go:

Although we didn’t stay in the city of San Jose itself, we spent part of our holidays in the hills just north of the city.  We were thrilled that we did, because the beautiful hills and cooler days provided a wonderful counterpart to the warmer weather by the ocean.

What to see:

We hired a guide for a day, and Leo took us to the Poas volcano in the morning.  Although it was cloud-covered while we were there, we could just see the rim of this still-active volcano.  At an altitude of nearly 9000 feet, we enjoyed the short walk to the edge, seeing the hardy plants that live there (including Poor Man’s Umbrella and Monkey’s Tail fern).

In the afternoon, we shopped in the town of Sarchi, known for its crafts, particularly the hand-painted oxcarts typical of the region.  While we were in one shop, we watched an artisan painting a side of a cart with finesse.

If we’d stayed longer, we would have loved some of the other excursions.    Finca Rosa Blanca is a working coffee plantation, and they offer a tour of their farm.  I still regret that we didn’t have the chance to visit a school in the local community, too.

Where to stay:

The hotel itself was the reason we spent several days near San Jose, and it’s a decision we didn’t regret.  It really is one of the loveliest properties we’ve ever stayed at, set in the quiet countryside less than half an hour from the city airport.  But it seemed miles from anywhere.  Each evening we sat out on our terrace, watching the twinkling lights of San Jose in the valley below, before walking down the leafy path to the hotel restaurant.

The pool was just two minutes from our room, but completely hidden behind the foliage.  With a built-in waterfall and a hot tub on the upper deck, it was a wonderful place to relax and enjoy the sun.

We loved the philosophy of Finca Rosa Blanca as much as anything.  They are devoted to sustainable tourism, unlike many properties that pay it lip service for marketing purposes.  Glenn and Teri buy most of their supplies from local merchants and support several schools and environmental causes.  They also have a number of initiatives in place to protect the water supply and to leave as small a trace on the environment as possible.

Where to eat:

Although we had a delightful lunch out in the village of Sarchi, the food at Finca Rosa Blanca was incomparable.  We ate all of our breakfasts on the restaurant’s beautiful, leafy terrace.  One of my daughters swore by the French toast, but I loved the Costa Rican breakfast with rice and beans.  And all three dinners we ate there were terrific.  The fish specials every night were great, but the steak and pork on the menu were equally good.  And the chef very graciously prepared a plain pasta for my daughter with less-adventurous taste buds.

P.S. If you read my guest post on the i-escape blog, the photos that accompanied it were supplied by them (except for the one of me).  But the photos on this post were all taken by Andrew!

Guest blog

We just got back from holidays in Costa Rica and, although you’ll be reading about it here sometime, I’d love it if you read my guest post on the i-escape blog.  i-escape features some of the most dreamworthy properties around the world that I’ve seen, and whenever we go on holidays, I check their website to see if they recommend any hotels in the area.  That's what we did last summer when we stayed at Clos de Bellefontaine and Villa Fol Avril in Normandy, France.  We loved both of them. 

Sometimes I check out their website only to daydream.  I may never get to Tunisia or Bali.  But that doesn’t keep me from imagining what it would be like to stay at the Hotel Dar Said or Bambu Indah.

When I won a blogging contest at i-escape a few weeks ago, they offered me the chance to guest-write on their blog, as well as a reduced rate on my stay at one of their properties.  Needless to say, my comments are entirely my own opinions and aren’t influenced by either of their generous offers.

Take a look at my first of two blog posts on i-escape and see what we did in Costa Rica!

The Grad Dress

Yesterday, I helped my youngest daughter buy her grad dress.

She isn’t graduating until June, but three of her friends had already bought theirs and she was anxious to get one of her own.  So she, her big sister and I hit the stores yesterday in search of the perfect dress.

Now I’m not much of a shopper.  Other than buying books, which I could do every day of my life, shopping makes me cranky.  The stores are too warm, I always seem to have too many things in my arms, and sometimes finding a helpful sales clerk is challenging.  In my ideal world, I’d have a personal shopper buy clothes on my behalf.  (In that world, I’d also have someone to look after my laundry.  But I digress.)

Shopping for a grad dress is different.  More than just an article of clothing, it marks a shift in my daughter’s life, a leap from girl to young woman.  And I truly loved being part of that.

I don’t know how my girls got to be so old.  This year I’m buying a dress for eighth grade grad; next year I’ll be buying a twelfth grade grad dress for her older sister.  When I look at pictures of them as toddlers and babies, it almost feels like I was a different person in those days. Back then, my thoughts were often completely wrapped up in their lives.  Things are still busy, of course, but as they get older, it’s part of my job to step back a little.  Always being there when they need me – like shopping for a grad dress – but giving them independence when that’s what they need.

Oh, and the dress?  I’m not allowed to post it, but it looks great!

Fortunately, it doesn’t matter how grown-up your family is.  Everyone, young and old, will love these cookies.  The only change I made to the original recipe was adding toffee bits, but I think they’d be great with or without. 

Crispy Chocolate Oatmeal Cookies

(adapted from Two Peas and Their Pod)

½ cup brown sugar

½ cup white sugar

½ cup softened unsalted butter

1 egg

1 tsp vanilla

1 cup flour

¼ tsp salt

½ tsp baking powder

½ tsp baking soda

1 cup oats (not quick oats)

1 ¼ cups Rice Krispies

1 cup chocolate chips

¾ cup toffee bits

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Combine butter and sugars in mixing bowl.  Beat until smooth.  On low, add in egg and vanilla extract.  Beat until combined.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, baking powder, and baking soda.  Slowly add to the butter mixture.  Stir in the oats, Rice Krispies, chocolate chips and toffee bits.  Avoid overmixing, which would crush the cereal.

Scoop dough into balls and place on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper.  Bake for 10 – 12 minutes.  Allow to cool for a minute on the cookie sheet before moving to a cooling rack.

Thursday's Child: Destination Rome

Destination: Rome

The Roman Forum

When we visited: August 2009

Why to go:

Fabulous history, beautiful churches, great art.  And a sculpture that just might bite your hand off.

What to see:

You already know most of what you want to see.  If you love history, there's no better destination.  The Colosseum, the Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill will make you appreciate the greatness of the Roman Empire.  The Vatican Museums’ Sistine Chapel is truly one of the great works of art, and St. Peter’s Basilica is both majestic and holy.

The great St. Peter's

Legend says if you throw a coin in Trevi Fountain, you’ll return to Rome someday. It worked for me – I did the first time I visited Rome in 1987, and I came back 22 years later.  Just to be sure, I tossed another coin in the fountain this time.  With any luck, I won’t have to wait 22 years before my next visit.

Have any of you seen the wonderful movie, Roman Holiday?  Starring Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck, it’s the story of a princess who sees the city through the eyes of a newspaper reporter.  One of the places they visit is The Mouth Of Truth, a marble disc with a face carved into it.  According to legend (the Romans love their legends), if you stick your hand into the mouth and tell a lie, it will be bitten off.  I’m pleased to tell you that we returned from Rome with all our limbs intact.

The Pollock family recreates another great movie moment.

Where to stay:

Finding a reasonably-priced hotel in any big European city can be difficult.  We were lucky to stay at the Caesar House Residenze Romane, which offered a family room at a great rate.  This centrally-located hotel is a couple of minutes’ walk to the Forum and the Colosseum and, like many European hotels, includes breakfast in the price. 

Where to eat:

When in Rome, you must try the gelato.  Gelato is like super-creamy ice cream, and we sampled our way through any number of gelaterias in Rome. San Crispino is reputed to serve the best, although we loved Tre Scalini in Piazza Navona.  Really, it’s splitting hairs.  It’s all delicious.

Silence

It was a busy morning.  I was cleaning the house and doing some baking (note: this was before Lent started!).  I had a handyman in, working on the bathroom.  My youngest daughter called at lunch to ask if she could have two friends over.

When they got here, the three of them pulled out their cell phones so they could compare ring tones – all at the same time. The hammering from the bathroom was challenged and defeated by the decibels at the kitchen table.  Three competing ring tones were analyzed – and modified, and retested – over the pasta. The handyman went out to his truck – ostensibly to eat his lunch, but I suspect he couldn’t hear himself hammering over the symphony in the kitchen.

And then I served these cookies. Phones were set aside, and the kitchen became an oasis of silence, broken only by an occasional guttural sound of gastronomic appreciation.

This recipe comes from the March issue of Bon Appetit magazine.  It makes a fairly small batch of cookies (I got fourteen) which is a good thing, because they’re best served on the day they’re made.  Four to the handyman and six to the hungry musicians left just four for dinner that night.

Fudgy Meringue Cookies

(adapted from Bon Appetit)

1 cup chocolate chips, divided

1 1/2 cups powdered sugar, divided

1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

2 teaspoons cornstarch

2 large egg whites, room temperature

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Place 1/2 cup chocolate chips in small microwave-safe bowl. Cook in 15-second intervals until chocolate softens; stir until melted and smooth. Cool chocolate to lukewarm, about 10 minutes. Whisk 1/2 cup sugar, cocoa, and cornstarch in small bowl to blend.

Using electric mixer, beat room-temperature egg whites, vanilla, 1/8 teaspoon salt, and cream of tartar in medium bowl until soft peaks form. Add remaining 1 cup sugar in 4 additions, beating just to blend after each addition. Continue to beat until meringue is thick and glossy like marshmallow creme, about 2 minutes longer. Beat in cocoa mixture. Fold in melted chocolate, then 1/2 cup chips.

Drop batter by rounded tablespoonfuls onto prepared sheets, spacing 3 inches apart. Bake cookies 7 minutes. Reverse sheets and bake until dry-looking and cracked, about 6 minutes. Cool cookies on sheets 5 minutes. Transfer cookies to racks and cool completely.

Thursday's Child: Destination St. John's

Destination: St. John’s, Newfoundland, Canada

When we visited: August 2007

Why to go:

St. John’s is the capital city of what is arguably the most unique area in North America.  Newfoundlanders are justifiably proud of their gorgeous province and their unique customs.

What to see:

Jelly Bean row, a series of unique and colourful homes, is one of the most photographed images in the city.

"The Rooms" is home to both a museum and art gallery, with a beautiful collection and lovely view of the harbour.  (If your visit works up an appetite, treat yourself to one of their cherry white chocolate cookies.)

Signal Hill was the site of the first transatlantic wireless broadcast, received by Guglielmo Marconi.  But more than that, it’s a gorgeous walk.  We took the circular trail for stunning views of the ocean and surrounding area.

And if you’re traveling with kids, don’t miss the Fluvarium.  It’s a museum connected with Memorial University, and the lowest level looks straight into the river.

Where to stay:

Leaside Manor Heritage Inn was a lovely bed and breakfast just a five minute drive from most of the sights.  Breakfasts were delicious (I should mention that breakfast service was quite slow, although after checking out tripadvisor.com, where this inn receives a #1 ranking in St. John’s, I’m guessing they’ve got those issues ironed out.)

Where to eat: 

We had two favourite restaurants in St. John’s.  Ches’s Fish and Chips is a St. John’s institution; this year they’re celebrating their 60^th anniversary.  Unsurprisingly, we opted for the fish and chips for lunch, although you could also order shrimp, scallops or chicken.  Ches’s serves good, basic food in a fun atmosphere.  

Blue on Water was also great, but a totally different experience.  We ate at this lovely restaurant twice, because our first brunch there was so outstanding.  The banana pancakes were to die for, and Andrew said his omelet was one of the best he’s had.  We got a side order of traditional Newfoundland toutons (essentially fried bread dough).

Bad News, Good News

Which do you want to hear first – the good news or the bad news?

Actually, the good news won’t make much sense without the bad, so that’s where I’ll start.  I’ve decided to give up baking for Lent.

Every year, I try to forgo something that I love for the forty days leading up to Easter.  The purpose is to make a sacrifice that I’ll miss in my daily life.  Most years I go without dessert, or some subset of dessert.

This year I decided to do something slightly different.  I love baking, and not being able to do that for six weeks will be something I dearly miss.  (Note that we won’t be eating out every night, because cooking is still okay.)  I’m hoping the creativity that I normally pour into my baking can be funneled into writing instead.

Now here’s the good news.  I did a burst of baking just before Lent started, and I have more than enough recipes and photos to carry me through.

That didn’t prevent me, on the first day of Lent, from standing wistfully in the middle of the cookbook section of my local Chapters store, gazing at the forbidden recipes.  Mercifully, I was able to leave the store with my integrity intact.  But it makes me think the next month and a half will be difficult.

There was nothing difficult about these muffins.  They were the best bran muffins I’ve ever made.  They were moist and tasted delicious on their own, as well as with honey or jam.  Don’t miss the step of lowering the oven temperature as soon as you put the muffins in the oven.  That’s what gives them a nice crispy exterior without drying them out.

By the way, when one of our girls asked Andrew what he was giving up for Lent, he said “Your mother’s baking.”  What a hero.

Honey-Raisin Bran Muffins

(Adapted from Williams-Sonoma Muffins)

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 cups wheat bran

1 ½ cups raisins

1/3 cup wheat germ

2 tsp baking soda

1 tsp baking powder

1 tsp salt

½ cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

½ cup firmly packed brown sugar

½ cup honey

1 cup plain yogurt

½ cup buttermilk

2 tsp vanilla extract

3 large eggs, beaten

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.  Line 18 standard muffin cups with paper liners, or use silicon muffin tins. 

In a bowl, stir together the flour, bran, raisins, wheat germ, baking soda, baking powder and salt.

In another bowl, cream together the butter, brown sugar and honey until fluffy.  Beat in the yogurt, then the buttermilk and vanilla, until well blended and smooth.

Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients and add the creamed mixture and the eggs.  Beat just until evenly moistened.  The batter will be thick and slightly lumpy.  Do not overmix.

Spoon the batter into each muffin cup, filing it level with the rim of the cup.

Transfer the filled pans to the oven and immediately reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees.  Bake 18 – 22 minutes.  A toothpick inserted into the centre of a muffin should come out clean.  Let the muffins cool for at least 15 minutes before turning out of the tins.